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Cosmaceutical Trends – Stem Cells

September 16, 2010

If anyone has been wondering what these little suckers are, wonder no longer as we delve into the world high-tech skin care where magic happens.

The incorporation of stem cells into cosmetic formulations is causing a stir globally due to their ability to develop into any cell type and effectively turn back ageing.  These actives are being used to help rebuild and repair the skin from within and high-end science based brands are lapping it up!

Stem cells are a very attractive proposition as they really could be the one ingredient that can turn back time and undo all of that sun and toxin damage and improve cellular function.

Stem Cells make baby soft skin possible for everyone.

Cosmetic ingredient manufacturer Mibelle set the formulating world on fire with their Swiss Apple (Utwiller Spatlauber) extract which promptly won the BSB award for the best active ingredient in 2008. This active claims to protect longevity of skin cells,  delay senescence (programmed death) of essential cells and therefore combat chronological aging. 

The longevity of skin cells was tested in vitro testing on human stem cells sourced from umbilical cord blood. These cells were stressed with UV light and their viability measured. The cells treated with the extract were found to be more resilient.

Delay of Senescence (cell death) was measured using fibroblasts cells exposed to hydrogen peroxide. Again, the cells cultured with the extract showed more resilience to this stress.  A further in-vitro test was carried out using isolated anagen phase hair follicles sourced from facelift patients supported the earlier result that stem cells increase the life span of cells.

The final claim based on reducing the signs of ageing was tested in vivo over four weeks with 20 subjects.  A cream containing the extract was applied twice a day with wrinkle depth measured after two and four weeks and compared to pre-trial pictures.  Images confirmed that wrinkle depth was reduced by 8 and 15% respectively enabling mibelle to make the claim.

As far as formulating goes the extract has been put into a liposomal  base which consists of xanthan gum, glycerine, lecithin, phenoxyethanol and water  to aid penetration through the stratum corneum.

Bucking the trend of growing stem-cells from plants is  Korean company Dr Jucre who has opted for  human cells in their line  (er, no thanks).

Early adopting brands in this space include Skeyndor, Lancome, Dior, Voss Laboratories, Revive, Emerge Skincare, Lumene, Clark’s Botanicals, Chantecaille and 3 Laboratories.

Lap it up!

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