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A Chat With Trilogy

October 15, 2010

Last month Trilogy launched their Age Proof Triple Action Line Smoother with a key ingredient ‘hydroxyproline’.   As usual I didn’t just want to smother myself in the potion, I wanted to submerge myself in the science of it all and who better to fill me in than one of the companies founders…….

Triple Action Line Smother is available now RRP $45 per 30ml.

A Conversation with Catherine de Groot

 Please tell us about the Triple-Action Line Smoother, which is the latest addition to the Age Proof range. 

Our newest addition to the Age Proof range, Triple-Action Line Smoother, targets deep wrinkles particularly around the eye, brow and mouth area for visibly younger looking skin.

The key ingredient is Hydroxyproline. Hydroxyproline is a plant derived Amino Acid with a triple effect on the skin – helping to support the skin matrix, in particular elastin and collagen so that lines are ‘plumped’ from within and skin tone and texture are improved. The result is that skin appears less lined and noticeably firmer.

The product also includes another natural skin firming hero Hyaluronic Acid, which we employ in all Age Proof products, plus Olive esters, and Essential Fatty acids from Avocado, evening Primrose and Olive oils to hydrate and moisturise skin.

The product is designed for daily use. Simply apply a small amount daily targeting areas you feel require extra attention such as crows feet, frown lines and laughter lines. Use a gentle smoothing action. The product has been formulated to glide effortlessly onto the skin to avoid stretching the skin surface.

You should see a visible improvement within one month of using the product. Even days after launching we received emails from customers telling us they noticed an immediate improvement in their skin tone as soon as they used the product!


1) Trilogy is a brand developed by sisters for sisters – what is the brands philosophy about beauty and ageing?

 We believe the secret to true beauty lies in our attitude to life, feeling youthful at what ever age we are, celebrating the confidence and elegance we’ve gained and being smart about how we minimise the signs of ageing. We developed Age Proof for use from the first fine lines and wrinkles and as your skin matures.

 2) What steps does Trilogy go through to develop a new product such as this age proof serum?  Where do you start? 

The process starts with a brief on the type of product we want to make with consideration of the performance results we want to see, the ingredient parameters and then finally the tactile aspects of the product such as the skin feel, viscosity and fragrance.

In the case of our latest Age Proof product the ‘hero’ ingredient was sourced from one of our ingredient suppliers in France, arguably the leaders in advanced natural skin care ingredient technology. They send samples of ingredients for use in our own sample products as well as finished products that also use the same ingredient. We can then use these as comparisons throughout the research and development process.

 The next stage is sourcing the other ingredients in the product. Many are considered during the development and sampling process but of the hundreds we consider only a relatively few get through to final product stage. We thoroughly research the clinical data on each ingredient and will not use an ingredient if does not have immaculate technical data to accompany it along with a pristine environmental and safety profile. At Trilogy we believe that it is important to use few ingredients at levels at which they will be effective rather than using many ingredients at low levels at which they cannot possibly affect results on the skin. Throughout the sampling process we use in-house sampling and consumer panel reviews to evaluate the potential of the ingredient.

 Every product takes at least a year to develop and towards the end of the process we have agreed on the ingredient profile and begin to concentrate on the testing phase to ensure stability and safety. We use several laboratories in this process and the final stamp of approval is given in the EU were the finished product receives its toxicological review and approval. 

3) Hydroxyproline is a pretty complex molecule and one that most women will not have heard of – it is also quite new in the cosmetics field.  What benefits have you found that this brings to the skin and why was it selected?

 We have been researching ingredients for this product for the last three years and I was introduced to this key ingredient by one of our favourite ingredient suppliers in early 2009.It was being hailed by many in the tech industry as the natural active for the new millennium. I was immediately interested in the depth of data supporting its efficacy and by the beauty of the product in sample use. I think women will be pleased by the impressive and visible results it gives.

Hydroxproline (INCI name: Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline) is a very complex ingredient but can basically be described as a plant-derived Amino acid. It is a relatively new anti-wrinkle ingredient which moisturises the skin and reduces the appearance of the visible signs of aging (effectiveness proven in vivo). Hydroxyproline firms skin by stimulating the contraction of collagen fibres. It protects dermal fibres from enzymatic breakdown and exerts an anti-free radical action 

Or in more technical terms the product has the following actions on the skin:

 1. Contraction of collagen fibers + 14% of collagen fibers contraction (0.001% DPHP)

2. Protection of elastic fibers + 81% anti-elastase effect (0.05% DPHP)

3. Radical scavenging effect+ 85% inhibition of superoxyde anion (0.07% DPHP)

4. Stimulation of TIMPs, natural anti age inhibitors + 46% of TIMP2 stimulation by fibroblasts (0.0005% DPHP)

5. Inhibition of MMPs, enzymes responsible for skin’s ageing process + 94% of MMP2 inhibition by fibroblasts (0.0005% DPHP)

6. Protection of dermo epidermal matrix and collagen+26% of pro-collagen 1 stimulation by fibroblasts (0.0005% DPHP), +61% of laminins

 4) How do you go about testing a product like this and can anyone become a tester?

 Testing for the above in undertaken in Europe and I am unsure of the process of becoming an ingredient test volunteer.  

5) They say that wrinkles are caused by worrying too much, do you have any anti-worry tips for us sisters out there?

 Yes. Smile, smile and smile some more. Even if you have to force yourself to smile, you’ll find it makes you feel better and worry less. I try to remember, worry is a misuse of my imagination and the things you worry about today will be forgotten tomorrow. I try to practice being present and I’ve found meditation is a great way to train your mind not to worry.  

Cath de Groot


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