Review: Cellular Laboratories Re-Birth Serum
OK, so a hormone is not one of those ingredients that you would expect to find in your skin care but that’s exactly what you get with Cellular Laboratories “Re-Birth” serum. Apparently this serum contains the world’s first Synthetic growth hormone like chemical to help reverse the visible signs of aging – I am guessing that it does this by encouraging the growth of new cells or something but to be on the safe side I did a bit of research.
What is this special ingredient called?
The chemical to look out for is Clairsome P-9, a name that has been given to this proprietory mix of growth factors with skin rejuvenating powers.
So is it a hormone?
Hormonesque skin care may contain one of two key families of active, the growth hormone and the growth factor. The hormone is the chemical that is usually produced by the pituitary gland, it goes on to stimulate growth and cell reproduction. Hormone growth factors stimulate cell turn over. Both may have benefits in terms of their anti-ageing abilities but the older you get, the more likely you are to benefit from the hormone rather than the growth factor – it’s no good turning cells over that either aren’t there or are too old to produce anything good. However, due to the legal difficulties surrounding the use of growth hormone it is more usual for skin creams to use the growth factors. Therefore it is likely the product from Cellular Laboratories doesn’t contains hormones at all, just growth factors which are linked but not the same. To be fair on Cellular Labs, their marketing materials call this a ‘hormone-like’ material.
Depending on exactly which growth factors are present these get into the skin and up-regulate repair and re-growth mechanisms, plumping out the skin and speeding up its repair processes.
Is it unique?
Growth hormone-improved skin is not a new or unique concept as the injection of these hormone-esque chemicals has been going on in Medi Spa’s and cosmetic surgery clinics since since the late 1990’s. However, it’s use hasn’t been without controversy and is bordering on illegal (it is registered with the TGA as a drug) with doctors only able to prescribe anti-ageing ‘treatment’ to those with a pocket full of money and a natural deficiency (does ageing come under that category????) Anyway, suffice to say that hormone boosted anti-ageing treatments exist but as I mentioned above, it is more usual for products to contain the growth factors than the actual hormones.
By 2008 the first of many hormone-in-a-bottle products hit the main street (hormone inspired skin care has been available in China for many more years) with 3 Labs H Serum touted as being a revolutionary new anti-ageing solution. Over the last few years 3 Labs has been joined by Skin Medica, Revive with their Peau Magnifique Youth Recruit, Nu Skin (focusing on telemorase fixing in its age loc technology range ) and of course Motives by Loren Ridinger with their Cellular Laboratories range. On top of that there are products from PureTek, iS Clinical, Paradise Skin and Elizabeth Arden (from an article on Cosmetics and Toiletries listing Mintel Data)
So, I wouldn’t go so far as to say that this range had a unique approach to anti aging but it is definitely an interesting and niche end of the market.
Can it get to the place that it is needed?
These human growth hormone and growth factor chemicals are relatively large when compared to the gaps in our skin and as such are unlikely to get further than the top layers of the eipdermis unless something miraculous happens to them. The rise of nanotechnology (making things really small and transportable) has made the delivery issue a bit easier – the HGH can be made small enough to get through the hair follicles (or pores) and therefore deeper into the skin. BUT it is not that easy, getting a chemical into the skin goes against the skin’s barrier function nature so it is not a given that a very small molecule will be sucked straight in. Secondly the actual base of the cream may act in one of two main ways, it may help it to go in or it may work against its passage. Obviously big skin care houses will have the know-how to create the appropriate base but even then, it is not unusual for delivery to be thwarted in-use when the product tester layers the product on top of or underneath an incompatible cream, lotion or make-up. These products need to be used alone.
Where can I get some independent information on the science?
No piece on the use of growth hormones in anti-ageing skin care would be complete without mentioning Dr Lee Benner from the Lee Benner Institute. Apparently he is the ‘anti aging doctor’ and a guru in all things hormone related and as such recommends that we all start the fight against ageing as soon as possible, Nice! Anyone interested in finding out more about what our hormones look like and do should pop on by and take a look at his models. Otherwise we always check out the Journal of Investigative Dermatology just to see what studies have been done and Happi magazine for new ingredient launches.
What else does the Re-Birth Serum contain?
This is one high-tec formula and as such contains a whole bevvy of ingredients that help to moisturise, protect and replenish tired and ageing skin.
So should I buy some?
Although I have said that the idea and science behind this product is not unique it is still rare and for that reason (should you be able to afford the $70 plus per pack) I would give it a try. However, don’t expect this to look like your average serum as it is more of a thin cream and has a pretty strong (but not unpleasant) aroma. As with all highly active cosmaceuticals I would avoid over-dosing on this especially if you have problem or irritated skin as skin in de-stress probably doesn’t need a whole bundle more chemicals to manage. Other than that I’d say go for it but just remember that the biggest cause of wrinkles other than the sun and genetics is stress so do your skin a favour and chillax a little.
Where do I get it?
This range is available through the Motives website but those of you in and around Sydney may benefit from speaking to our image consultant Cosimina Nesci who not only distributes the product but also offers consultations and workshops on all aspects of managing your personal and professional image.