Bio Effects EGF Serum
Yesterday when I was writing about how much I loved using Simple, the stripped back, claiming-nothing-much, back-to-basics skin product I did find it ironic that the ingredients listing ran into the millions (well, not exactly but it was quite long).
So imagine my nerdy delight when I find out that this Bio Effects EGF Serum that claims:
- Reduce visible signs of aging
- Adds radiance and luminosity
- Moisturises Deeply
- Diminishes Dry Spots
- Improves Complexion
- Made in Iceland
- AND ONLY 9 INGREDIENTS!!!!!!!!!
I just had to have a little lie down.
So here they are:
Glycerine – This is a cheap, effective and easy-to-use humectant that binds water to it delivering it to the skin when the conditions are right.
Aqua – Water
Sodium Hyaluronate – This is another humectant that is super effective at holding water (think back to those nappy adverts…..). This is a lot more expensive than glycerine but it essentially does the same job albeit to a greater degree.
Tromethamine – A buffering agent which is restricted in the EU due to its potential to release nitrosamines in certain situations. I’m not really sure why it has been chosen in this formula as there are other buffers. This is also known as 1,2 propanediol
Alcohol – less than 0.9% apparently. This could be in there to help the product dry quicker on the skin or as a carrier for the active.
Calcium Chloride and Sodium Chloride – salts that are used to buffer the very sensitive active ingredient.
Hordenum Vulgare Seed Extract – Barley Extract with skin soothing benefits (this must also be less than 1% if the ingredient listing is right).
EGF – Barley oligopeptide 1. The other half of the miracle ingredient that gives this product most of its benefits.
According to the press release this product is a revolution in the anti-ageing market. It has gained cult status in Iceland where its patented ‘green’ technology has secured it 20% of the female population – that sounds impressive but is probably a bit far-fetched! This local popularity has also been replicated across the UK, France, Germany, Italy and the Netherlands and apparently it is even selling out in the exclusive Colette Store in Paris!
But does it/ could it work?
Here is the listing for the key active on Special Chemicals for Cosmetics:
This EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor) is a transgenic barley extract and while that sounds awfully Frankensteinian it isn’t really. Basically small peptide components of barley have been spliced with a human growth factor (which can also be made synthetically) to make a new peptide that is recognised by the skin and can therefore turn on or up-regulate various skin rejuvenating processes. The human growth factors are The active ingredient manufacturers state that this active works in very low concentrations of anything between 0.1 and 10 ppm so there is no need to feel duped at the fact that this is the last of the nine ingredients. The key to these sorts of products is in getting the active to the site that it is needed. Now there may be heaps of data to show how this serum works on real people but all I’ve tracked down so far are some in vitro (test tube) tests which are much less useful.
When it comes to a product like this, the proof is in the wearing I guess and as this product has been very popular I would expect that it does indeed do something. I’ve only popped a little on my skin tonight and my first impression is that a little does indeed go a long way. Also it does make your face feel a little warm which is apparently to be expected and is a sign that it is working. As the product contains no gimmicks I have to believe them!
Epidermal Growth Factors are not a new thing in the world of cosmetics but many brands do tend to dilute their effect by popping them into emulsions containing lots of other bits and pieces diluting their activity. Bio Effects seem to ‘get’ the chemistry of these sensitive actives and are clearly not fussed about the simplicity of their formula. I quite like their boldness and will continue my way through the 3ml sample I’ve been sent (which should last around one week) to see if I notice any visible difference in my skin. However at $180 for 15ml this HAS to work before I’d consider making the full commitment so watch this space.