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Palm Free Moisturiser Concept – Crowd Sourced R&D

August 9, 2013

Happy Friday people!

As my frequent readers will know I am no stranger to the palm issue and regularly voice my opinion on the issue that is not the issue.  However, I live in this world and as such come across many people who have decided that Palm is evil and is unwelcome in their life.  They want alternatives and I’m curious to know if alternatives are an option.

So I thought stuff it, I’ll develop a palm free moisturiser in public for you guys to try.  If you are lucky you may even make some money out of it if that’s what floats your boat.

Step 1:  Develop a concept formula and try it in the lab.

This is where I am very lucky, well lucky and naturally nerdy. I have a well stocked laboratory (of course I have) and know a thing or two about emulsion formation so this part of the R&D process took me a little under 30 minutes to cobble together.  I know that because I had to fit it in before the school run!

This is what I came up with:

Palm Free moisturiser recipe

Palm Free moisturiser recipe

Step 2:  Make the thing.

OK so this was easy to.  You just hydrate the Amigel in the aloe liquid  or water if aloe is not something you want (I use hot water/ Aloe – 80C). I have a homogeniser so it didn’t take me long but it may take you a bit more effort and time with a bar mixer or (heaven forbid) a spoon!  In any case the amigel has to look nice and thick and un-lumpy before we can go on.

Next the other ingredients  from phase A were added to the water with gentle stirring.

Phase B was weighed and melted to 80C.  Beeswax is the last to melt and I then allow it to cool a touch before forming the emulsion.

Phase B is then added into phase A while you are stirring until a nice smooth emulsion is formed.  Here I noticed some foaming which could be because I have too much emulsifier (I can always go back and try this with less emulsifier next time – saving me money and lowering the irritation potential) but for now it will do.

Once this new emulsion is cooled I add the preservative and the fragrance.  The preservative is pretty smelly so the perfume isn’t shining out as much as I would have liked.   I could try a different preservative but I wanted to make a recipe that was demonstrating a palm free and organically certifiable formulation base.

Once cooled down further it is packed into pump packs.  Did you know that pump dispensers improve the micro stability of an emulsion over that packed in a jar or flip top lid bottle?  Yay for the pump – I found a scientific study on this if you want the link.

Step 3: Trial and error.

palm free moisturiser part 1

OK so now it is done it is time to try it and critique its skin feel.  I don’t mind it at all actually. It isn’t as thick as some customers would want but the feel both initially and after around 1/2 hour is great in my opinion. I certainly wouldn’t balk at having to use this.  Nice one.

Step 4:  Testing for stability.

So I only started this experiment today and not having an exacting brief to work with I could get to step 4 very quickly – it isn’t always this easy believe me!  But what I don’t know is the stability of this little baby.   Stability testing is one of the day-to-day services that Realize Beauty offers so I’m going to run my stability boot camp first and if it passes that I’ll be much more confident in the palm free concept and might even start developing a few more bases.

So, all that is left to do is say ‘watch this space’.

Maybe in future all formulating and R&D should work this way.  Maybe I should crowd source another idea (virtual brain storming sounds good to me) and see if I can get it crowd funded as well as  after all someone has to pay my mortgage 🙂

I’ll give you a stability update early next week when the first round of extreme testing is completed.  Micro is a different issue and that may take more time – I’ll see how we go with this first.

Have fun and enjoy your Friday.


2 Comments leave one →
  1. August 10, 2013 8:06 am

    What an awesome idea! I love the idea of crowdsourcing a recipe.

    • RealizeBeautyEd permalink
      August 10, 2013 8:11 am

      Me too! I am a big fan of transparency in the R&D process. I’m trying to figure out a way to get this idea to fly!

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